Category Archives: SEEK Food & Drink

Once upon a time, in a land called Marseille…

I am going to tell you a story about a city in France. Everybody all over the world knows Paris, but my story is about a town in the South of the France. Maybe some of you had heard about it, maybe in a positive way or maybe in the negative way. This city, snuggled up at the heart of Provence and on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, is also commonly known as la Cité Phocéenne (The Phocaean City). Marseille, town of a thousand facets, fascinating and bewilderingly complex, is my city.

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Marseille, Land of Immigrants

I was born in Marseille in 1984, to Italian immigrants parents. Why Marseille? Because  for many people who make the choice to leave their country, the city has a big port open on the Mediterranean sea. Near Spain, Italy and North Africa, the town has welcomed many different culture over the years. When you are in Marseille, you just need to drive 3 hours to cross the Italian border. Easy! The new inhabitants arrive also by boat, trying to built a better life. Marseille has never closed its arms in front of any wave of immigrants. This made it strong, a multicultural city. Everything isn’t perfect, because some differences can create conflicts. Indeed, language, religious, or cultural differences can cause real integration problems. Despite that, Marseille stays the most welcoming city in France, a town where my siblings and I have grown up and where we proudly carry our Italian heritage and our dual citizenship.

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Marseille, Land of  Authenticity

If you like beautiful and authentic attractions, Marseille is made for you. When I think about my city, I can’t forget the smell of the sun on my skin, its daylight beauty, and its mysterious side at sunset. Rich in history, Marseille is where ancient architecture combines with the new face of the city. The first thing to do, even if you aren’t catholic, is to visit la Basilique Notre Dame de Garde, commonly refer by the Marseillais to “La Bonne-Mère.” Built on the hill overlooking the town at 490 ft, the view on the top is wonderful. The best moment is early in the morning when everything is still quiet. With a 360 degree view of the city, it was consecrated on June, 5th, 1864, and each year, the pilgrimage for the Assumption Day, on August 15th is really popular event. This Neo-Byzantine church supports a monumental statue of the Madonna and her child, which is 27 feet tall and made of copper gilded with gold leaf. La Bonne- Mère, is the guardian and the protector of Marseille. The other religious site is La Cathédrale de la Major, built from 1829-1874, in a Byzantine-Roman style. With a capacity of 3,000 seats, it’s one of the largest cathedrals in France. It’s 469 ft long, with a main cupola of 231 ft high.

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But in Marseille, there is another strong religion: football. Not in general, but the football team of the city, l’Olympique de Marseille (OM). Taking place in the famous Stade Vélodrome, the night of home matches are events not to be missed. The ambiance and the fans are considered  as the best all over the world.  Built in 1937, the stadium welcomes 67,394 spectators and is also used for shows. Indeed, le Vélodrome is a wonderful stage for several artists, such as The Rolling Stones, Paul McCartney, The Police and AC/DC. The other site associated to the team is La Commanderie, it’s the training center of l’OM. Many fans from all over the world come to see their idols and dedicate jerseys.

The town is also known for its different authentic districts, such as le Panier, which is located in the oldest part of the city and surrounded by famous places such as l’Hôtel de Ville, les Grands Carmes and La Joliette. With narrow streets, shops and its own old architecture, the district is considered the most picturesque place in Marseille. It’s defined as a popular area because it was the first place of the immigrants in the city.  It soon became a tourism venue and many artists opened studios because Le Panier served as a place of inspiration as for the famous local TV show, Plus Belle la vie, shot in Marseille. You can also visit La Vieille Charité, a a museum and a cultural center and former almshouse for the poor. This Baroque structure was constructed between 1671 and 1749 by the architect Pierre Puget. It is filled with beautiful architecture such as structure with pink and yellow tinted stones. In the center of the courtyard a round church was built. If you continue to walk, you will arrive on the MuCEM, (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations), inaugurated on June 7th, 2013, the year Marseille was designated as the European Capital of Culture. The museum is near the wonderful site of the 17th century le Fort Saint-Jean, built by Louis XIV at the entrance to the port. The two places are linked by a high footbridge.

There are so many places to see that the best way for you to take it all in will be to book a ticket and fly Marseille. But if you want more right now, I of course have to talk about le Vieux Port (the Old Port), which is located at the the end of the most historic street of Marseille, La Canebière. Since 2013, it’s mainly for pedestrians with few cars. Each morning it welcomes the fresh fish of fishermen. It is the historic and cultural center of the city since it dates back to sixth century BC. From the port you could take the ferry boat to visit the islands of the Phocaean City, such as, the archipelago of Frioul and le Château d’If, fortress and prison known for being one of the settings of Alexandre Dumas novel, Le Comte de Monte-Cristo.

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If you continue towards the Southern districts, you will follow the ledge called la Corniche du Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy, named after US President Kennedy. It extends from Les Catalans beach to Le Prado and its famous for its naked statue of David. It offers one of the most beautiful landscapes of Marseille, with the Mediterranean Sea and its islands on the horizon. On the way you could see the famous fishermen sheds, “cabanons”,  houses of the 19th century (Villa Valmer, Villa de Gaby Deslys), hotels and famous restaurants (Le Petit Nice, Peron, Chez FonFon), where you could stop to eat the inimitable, bouillabaisse (fish soup). Under La Corniche, hides the little but picturesque port of Vallon des Auffes, where the time seems to have stopped.

I can’t finish this part without talking about the amazing Calanques de Marseille. The massif is the best place to hike and climb with is wild and rugged landscape between Marseille and Cassis. The site is the one of France’s great natural beauties. The geology and ecosystems are protected — In 2012, the Calanques were declared National Parks due to their uniqueness. Even though nowadays we can’t visit it, the Cosquer cave is located underwater, in the Calanque de Morgiou. It’s a cave of the Paleolithic area, covered with paintings and engravings of animals dating between 27,000 and 19,000 BC. The Calanques can be see by boat and if the weather allows you should swim in this warm, blue water. But please be a responsible tourists! Protect this land of dreams.

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Marseille, Land of Pleasure

Oh my taste buds quiver with pleasure evoking the food in my city. Okay, I’m vegetarian but even though Marseille has the best fish restaurants, we are also known for the best pizza. Remember, Marseille is a city of immigrants with close proximity to Italy. We are the city with the most pizza in France. In each area, you can smell tomato sauce and wood fire. I could damn myself for one of these piece! If you want make your own pizza, the best venue is Sapori di Napoli. It’s a little Trattoria in Château-Gombert’s district, which combines a shop full of Italian products with a restaurant. The owner, Raffaele Paparone, imports products such as the mozzarella di Bufala, Panettone, wine and deli meat from Napoli.

If you like different kinds of food, I recommend la Baie du Dragon. It’s a Vietnamese restaurant on Notre Dame du Mont district. The place is perfect for vegetarians and the chocolate nems are just divine. It’s my king of headquarter, the go-to for when I have to celebrate something, such as my departure for the USA.

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In Marseille you can easily find all kind of restaurants — Indian, Italian, French, Moroccan, Japanese etc, and for all your events. Even though Marseille has some good restaurants, for me, the best place remains my family home, with the real meals made by la Mamma. But take your ticket and wait your turn, because I can’t invite you all in the same day.

It’s time to say goodbye to Marseille, with a little twinge in my heart, thinking about these venues, the food and my mother’s arms. But do you smell the perfume of the Mediterranean? Do you smell the garlic, tomatoes, basil and olive oil? Do you smell the flavor of freedom?

If yes, you are made for Marseille, the city of the Epicurean

Sorry, I have to leave you, it’s now time for l’apéro, (a kind of happy hour, after work where you drink and eat snacks), the most important moment in a day in Marseille, to drink the legendary Pastis.

Allez santé! Salute! (Cheers!)

Off the Beaten Track: San Francisco’s Hayes Valley

‘Great Adventure’ is painted in giant marquee letters on the side of a Victorian mansion on the corner of Hayes Valley’s Octavia and Page Streets. This Ben Eine mural is a constant reminder of the district’s steadfast spirit. Since suffering a crucial blow from the 1989 Loma Prieta Earthquake and subsequent fires, the community has continued to surmount itself. Bold entrepreneurs moved into the area after big-scale renovations had tidied up the neighborhood. Now, twenty-five years later, a unique ambiance has spawned with exciting shops, mural masterpieces, food truck dining, blossoming public gardens, and a relaxed atmosphere. Hidden away in the shadows of Civic Center’s domes, Hayes Valley has risen to contain all ingredients that make San Francisco so special.

When approaching the neighborhood from the east, coming from City Hall, picturesque Linden Street offers the prettiest entrance. Rather than lined-up cars, planters dominate this lively alley. Appropriately titled ‘While You Wait’, a monochromatic mural by Zio Ziegler offers the perfect distraction while waiting in line for Blue Bottle Coffee. Stashed away in a garage, this coffee hut is believed to have the best coffee in town. The New Orleans-style iced coffee, in particular, gloriously kick-starts your morning. The stretch of greenery that lies ahead is Patricia’s Green, the epicenter of neighborhood life. When sun bathing on the park’s lawn, give in to one of Smitten Ice Cream’s many surprising flavors. How about brown cinnamon shortbread or strawberry white balsamic for a change? Consume your icy delight away from local razzle-dazzle in the narrow public gardens flanking Octavia Street. Quoting one of the sayings painted on pieces of wood, ‘let your thoughts pass thru you like wind’ when you perch down on a bench in these fenced botanical retreats. Pass through Page and Laguna Mini Park and zigzag up to Koshland Community Park before fueling up in Samovar Tea Lounge. Sumptuous lunch dishes along with artisan teas are guaranteed to provide you with the kick of energy needed to further explore Hayes Valley.

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Photo by Flickr user: Charles CC2.0

Tree-topped Hayes Street accommodates the area’s trendiest stores. One of the most notable ones, Flight 001, is a traveler’s Valhalla. Decorated to look like the inside of an airplane, this swanky shop sells everything from international power adapters to stylish travel bags. With branches in major cities like Tokyo and New York, setting-up shop here demonstrates the upturn of Hayes Valley as an up-and-coming destination. Styling the city’s most fashionable residents, Undefeated has a diverse selection of the coolest sneakers, clothing, and caps. Shop for vintage one-of-a-kind items and apparels at Reliquary, just around the corner. This neighborhood trump feels both enchanting and unhurried. Comic book nerds and aficionados meet at Isotope on Fell Street. More than just a comic book store, Isotope is also a place for art, workshops, and relaxation. Chill out on one of their comfy sofas with a graphic novel in hand while discussing the latest adventures of Spider-man, Batman, and the X-men.

Just as diverse as the district’s shopping scene is the munchscape, ranging from casual eateries to posh diners. On sunny afternoons people line up for one of the many food trucks that cruise the city. Within these mobile mini-kitchens talented rookies and established chefs cook up the most delicious meals for the most satisfying prices. Baking a mean Arugula pizza, Casey’s Pizza truck has been spotted regularly on Saturday afternoons. Derived from ‘mazza’, meaning small dishes of appetizers in Arabic, Lebanese corner restaurant Mazzat serves hummus and tapas-like dishes. Every morning, grandma prepares fresh meals for the day, making this family-enterprise highly authentic. Souvla on Hayes St. is the newest addition to the exclusive Greek dining scene in San Francisco. In this rather modern walk-in, a communal table for twelve replaces the typical ramshackle seats that one might expect in traditional Greek diners. With all those enticing fragrances, choosing between pork, chicken, or lamb (or veggie) has never been this hard. No place else screams bearish German food like Rosamunde Sausage Grill in Haight Street, just west of Hayes Valley. Head here for a hearty sausage on a bun or gigantic burger, only served on Tuesdays. Expect little space to maneuver yourself to the counter as this joint is gaining popularity.

Acknowledging the great marriage between sausage and beer, next-door Toronado allows you to bring in your grilled meat. Their infamous selection of beers and divey vibe make this place one of the Bay area’s finest beer bars. If you’ve become intrigued by San Francisco’s street art scene don’t forget to take a quick peek at the mysterious ‘Two Beauties’ mural on the corner of Steiner and Haight Streets. For tall mugs of German beer, descend back to central Hayes Valley’s Biergarten. The dozens of picnic tables, alongside the shipping containers that house the bar and kitchen, are packed with people looking to spend a carefree, sunny afternoon. Cross the Atlantic in the belly of a pirate ship in Smuggler’s Cove. Looking like the set of a Pirates of the Caribbean movie, this tiki bar serves up great cocktails and ensures a fun time. One of the lesser-known music venues, Rickshaw Stop, is the go-to place for live music of your favorite indie band or underground DJ. This venue on Fell St. gives you the opportunity to see up-and-coming acts before they go viral.

If it’s department stores, Michelin stars, and nightclubs that you’re after, you came to the wrong place. But if you are looking for trendy shoes, finger foods, and happy-go-lucky drinking, Hayes Valley will win you over. The neighborhood’s unconstrained atmosphere provides a breath of fresh air compared to downtown’s fast pace. Together with the community’s appreciation of innovative ways of living, this completes the recipe for San Francisco.

Off the Beaten Track: Bali’s Canggu

Blessed with magical scenery and flanked by miles of pristine grey beaches, Canggu is the perfect getaway from Bali’s party spots. Forming a stretch of rural villages along the south coast, the area is comprised of subdistricts Canggu and Tibubeneng. Set amidst bright green rice paddies and traditional kampongs (villages), this region offers a serene and intimate alternative to its popular neighbor Seminyak; a town that has undergone rapid transformations to become the island’s most upscale retreat. In search of challenging surf breaks and peaceful living, surfers and expatriates flocked to Canggu. Ever since, local restaurants, innovative shops, and rustic villas have sprouted and given the area its 21st century identity. Today, Canggu’s laid-back scene is one of the island’s best kept secrets. Rather than splurging on Bali’s renowned spa treatments, cruise the region’s roads and meet its people in order to feed your body, mind, and soul with a dose of new life.

With road stalls selling gasoline in vodka bottles for a penny, renting a scooter is the ideal way to explore the island. Close to Seminyak’s accommodations and laden with cafes, Jalan Batubelig is the perfect jalan (street) to start your tour. Begin your day by filling your belly with fresh bakes and barista coffee at Watercress Cafe. Their all-day breakfast menu combines Australian dishes with Asian infusions. As you follow the winding road into Jalan Pantai Berawa, rice fields gradually replace walled residences. Hidden away under palm trees along one of Canggu’s hairpin roads, a Balinese vendor prepares deliciously marinated chicken satays on his homemade charcoal grill. If you’d like your skewered meat extra spicy nod yes when he mumbles something inaudible. Get a glimpse of the scenic canals, rice terraces, and straw-hat-wearing farmers plowing their fields when you follow the signs to Echo Beach. One of the former surfers’ dens has been converted into bustling Echo Beach House with live music on Friday and Saturday night. Their beer-battered fish and chips and ice-cold Bintang beer will surely make your trip worthwhile.

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Photo by Flickr user: Bali Blog CC2.0

Although Canggu doesn’t seem like the most strategic area to set up shop, several entrepreneurs have taken the impulsive leap of faith. A handful of local shops are located in a side alley of Jalan Pantai Batu Bolong, one of Canggu’s main corridors. Outfitting the area’s beachy clientele, Ginger Snap Men’s Fashion offers limited edition men’s clothing that is made in Bali. Down the road Flow and Yonder Canggu Surf Co towers above the surrounding paddies. Check the daily surf reports pinned to the shop’s ground floor wall, before ascending the stairs to their surfboard showroom. The shop is reputable for its one-of-a-kind boards and top notch gear; unsurprisingly this is where Bali’s surf pros stock up. Nearby Deux Ex Machina is one of the island’s quaintest shops. Indeed, where else can you find clothes, books, art, and motorcycles under one roof? If you’re growing tired riding around on your tame scooter, consider adding some brute power to your trip by renting a motorcycle or push bike.

Not to be confused with a garage repair shop, Pasta Garage is one of many warungs (family-owned businesses) that the area is rich with. Located out of sight in a bumpy alley, this family-friendly restaurant is set in the idyllic garden of the owners’ house. Lanterns shed just enough light on the little tables that are spread around the patio. Their diverse menu and ridiculously cheap prices make Pasta Garage a Canggu gem. Back on the main road of this particular area sits Dabumito, one of the few Mexican restaurants on the island. Although Mexican cuisine is emphasized, the Indonesian dishes should definitely not be overlooked. For those appreciating spicy food, ask the ibu (hostess) for lombok kecil, Indonesia’s spiciest chili pepper. For something more familiar, take-away or eat in at Pizza Club where the menu is based entirely on movie titles. With extra toppings abbreviated as E.T., their seafood pizza called Finding Nemo, and their lamb pizza named Silence of the Lambs, you’re in for a laugh. Consider sitting down at one of Pantai Batu Belig’s terrace-like patios for a marvelous sunset. Just a few steps away from the beach, this local restaurant will permanently win you over on Indonesian cooking. Since the kitchen is located a few blocks away, allow some extra wait time for the food to arrive by scooter. Away from the beach, Warung Sobat has become quite the hit with both locals and foreigners looking to satiate on Indonesian dishes for next to nothing. Their satay ayam comes served on a mini grill, making it delightfully tender.

With all that tasty, inexpensive food, it’s easy to overindulge in Canggu’s dining scene. For deep after-dinner conversations relax on one of the heaven-like canopy beds at the brand new Mozaic Beachclub & Restaurant. The club’s anonymous location on one of the less visited stretches of beach keeps away loud and pretentious holiday crowds. Similarly, Vue Beach Club’s infinity pool area is decorated with comfortable seats. Dip your toes in pool or seawater while enjoying the DJ’s loungy beats. Decorated with hundreds of colorful antique shutters, Potato Head is one of Bali’s trendiest beach clubs. Surprisingly, you don’t require an unlimited credit card to spend the day feeling like a jetsetter. As you slip into the pool and have a drink at the island bar, taking in the see-and-be-seen atmosphere, you will start to comprehend how Bali earned its reputation as Asia’s new Miami.

Thanks to the upswing of locally-owned businesses, eco-friendly accommodations, and the preservation of nature, Canggu has become one of the most authentic, yet affordable, south Bali escapes. Perceived by many as a welcome alternative to Seminyak’s fancy sunglasses, expensive wines, and slick rides, the area has left developers coveting its grounds empty-handed.

Off the Beaten Track: Pretoria’s Hatfield

Pretoria, like the rest of South Africa, has entered times of massive urban renewal. Since hosting the World Cup in 2010 Pretoria, along with Cape Town and Johannesburg, has successfully revamped particular neighborhoods into vibrant and interesting places. Unfolding in Pretoria’s prettiest neighborhood is a real-life open-air exhibition of human, cultural, and architectural contrasts. Hatfield’s grounds are cultivated with student dorms, rustic bungalows, and stately diplomats’ houses. For good reasons, however, Hatfield is often referred to as party area, catering to University of Pretoria students. When moving away from the main streets, the sounds of sprinklers watering flower beds slowly replace the honking of horns and traffic noises. In Jacaranda shaded streets like these, you will find hidden shops, restaurants, and backyard pagodas typically unseen by the average visitor to Pretoria.

Taxi buses come and go, carrying and loading at least twice their capacity, before speeding off. The antique Volkswagen 1s that dominate the streetscape, purr in front of traffic lights. Hustling and bustling with activities, central Burnett Street provides you with a good first impression of modern day South Africa. With its cafes, fast food restaurants, hotels, and diverse shops, it’s the throbbing heart of Hatfield. Many young people spend most of the day smoking hookah in one of the many bars on Hatfield Square. However, beyond this lively square there is much more to experience.

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Photo by Flickr user: Ockert Botha CC2

Leave the chaos behind you by heading north. Rest your feet in Springbok Park where giant, hungry Hadada Ibis birds roam in search of a snack. Continue your way along the borders of at least a dozen countries, housed in fine ambassadorial villas. Passing the enormous American embassy, unsurprisingly bigger and more grand than its neighbors, you’ll find Eastwood Village Centre. Tucked away in the shadiest corner sits Café 41, one of Pretoria’s most enjoyable lunch spots. The cafe is praised for its good deals on continental dishes, cozy seating, and cosmopolitan vibe. Alternatively, Harrie’s Pancakes offers some of the most exotic pancakes around, both sweet and savory.

Pop into one of the few shops that have not yet been swallowed by one of many malls that scatter Pretoria. For artsy shoppers, enchanting Duncan Yard is an absolute must-see. These formerly ruinous buildings on the corner of Duncan and Prospect Street have tastefully been converted into a mini shopping center connected by picturesque corridors and stoney passages. Nowadays, the Yard is home to twenty stores selling exclusive furniture, unique merchandise, and delightful food. Maybe not as quirky but certainly charming is Owl Books just down the street. Among its dusty and unorganized shelves there are literary gems to be found. The Hatfield Flea Market, held every Sunday afternoon in the parking lot of Hatfield Plaza mall, is the place to stock up on African curios and souvenirs. Early birds can start off the weekend with a visit to the Boeremark (farmers market). Here you’ll find organic cheeses, honeys, and cakes. Be sure to be there on time since stalls are bound to be sold out by 9am.

If eating food sounds more appealing than shopping for food, you won’t come short in Hatfield’s multicultural dining scene. In self-proclaimed bastion of good times, Bravo Pizza, you can laze around, do your laundry, or pick out a good quality cut in the butchery area whilst you are waiting for your pizza. On Burnett Street, Shen Zhou Chinese Dumpling Restaurant cooks up the sweetest chili chicken you have ever tasted. With prices so cheap you keep ordering, the shabby exterior is easily ignored. On the brink of being pretentious, Papa’s Real Food is a good value, serving  international dishes and rich viands. Their minced meat and bell pepper stuffed pizza Calzone, in particular, does not leave room for dessert. All the way in the back, the attractively lit courtyard promises the same ambiance as neighboring Duncan Yard. For an elegant dining experience, try Braza in Menlyn Mall. Their Brazilian dishes, predominantly seafood, will leave you speechless; and not just because the dishes’ names are so hard to pronounce. Taste typical South African cuisine at Boer’geoisie, situated off the main roads in the middle of quiet Brooklyn. Once here, go for the Bobotie, a traditional and delicious South African version of meatloaf.

Squeeze in between uber-fanatical rugby supporters or soccer fans at Lady Chatterley’s Pub for after-dinner drinks. Low-key Aandeklas attracts similar crowds but preserves a more laid-back atmosphere. Postpone ordering beers until halftime or risk getting caught up in passionate cheering. For live action, consider a free evening game of university league rugby or soccer at the LC de Villiers sports campus. Unleash your sports-related frustrations or celebrations on the beer pong table in Herr Gunters. Mind-blowing dance-offs are common occurrences at Cheeky Monkey, a bar on the other side of the square. Ultimately, by far the poshest nightclub is Moloko Club. Balancing a strictly enforced dress-code and refined ambiance with the right amount of exuberance, this club has become one of the region’s hippest nightlife destinations.

In a land that is known for its magnificent natural beauty and coastline, metropolitan areas have always come second. Previously believed to lack noteworthy sights and, even worse, presumed to be foul, unsafe, and highly populated, Hatfield proves outdated presumptions wrong. Following the path of its predecessors, Hatfield offers an intimate and dynamic neighborhood experience as well as an urban escape from nature.

 

Off the Beaten Track: Madrid’s Malasaña

Formerly a sleepy district in the center of Madrid, Malasaña has become a refuge for the city’s outcasts in recent years. Mostly dissidents of mainstream city life, these newcomers have revived and transformed the area into one of Madrid’s most thriving neighborhoods. With forward-thinking businesses sprouting on nearly every street corner, dusty and decayed structures have made room for artisan butcheries and trendy shops. Nowadays, you’ll find local culture peacefully coexist with erotic boutiques, grow shops, and heavy metal clubs. Despite these radical changes in locals’ everyday lives, the area has remained its authentic Madrilenian panache.

Upon exiting Tribunal metro station, the earthy colors of Malasaña’s buildings take you back to Moorish times. Make your way through clothespined alleyways towards Plaza del 2 de Mayo, Malasaña’s central hub for summer festivals and weekend flea markets. Make a pit stop at Buenas y Dulces for one of their ever-so-fruity tarts before nestling yourself on one of the park’s benches; the ideal spot for serious people watching. Zigzag your way down to charming Calle del Espíritu Santo from which streets meander into the dense neighborhood. Camouflaged amongst typical Spanish facades, Lolina Vintage Café is a hidden gem. Take a breather in their eighties inspired interior and enjoy a glass of icy Tinto de Verano.

Photo by Flickr user: Javier CC2.0

Make up for skipping your siesta by adopting the Spanish tradition of late-afternoon tapas. With a hundred different mini-sandwiches on the menu and special prices on Wednesday and Sunday, Cervecería 100 Montaditos is a welcome alternative from ordinary sandwich shacks. Here’s how it works: skim the menu, order by number, and wait for your name to be called. For what are believed to be the best tapas in the area, head to Albur. With its fair prices, this restaurant provides a popular hang-out for both classy and casual crowds.

If you still find yourself with an itch in your pocket, browse through one of many specialty shops. Located just off Plaza del 2 de Mayo, Numbers Sneakers is the place to stock up a Malasaña essential: a pair of colorful hipster-approved kicks. While you’re at it, check out the custom cap-wearing mural on the wall behind the cash register. Magpie Vintage is the go-to place for both men and women looking to find unique pieces and explore new styles. End your shopping spree in Mercado de Fuencarral; a mall that houses a selection of the wackiest shops. Collections range from Jamaican memorabilia to tuxedo-styled bibs. Malasaña is also home to some of the oldest businesses in town: still-operating farmacia Juanse, founded in 1898, is the oldest of its kind in Madrid.

Sauntering the neighborhood with heavy shopping bags will work up an appetite, but remember that dinner is seldom served before 9 pm. When craving quality burgers, it’s hard to beat industrially-designed Naif Madrid Burguer & Bar, serving fully-loaded homemade burgers on toasty buns. For less than 8 euros, take-out eatery Ay Mi Madre! offers daily menus of Spanish classics; the menu may be small, but the food is quite satisfying. Alternatively sit down at atmospheric A 2 Velas and let a candlelit Iberian dinner herald true Malasaña dining and ambiance.

The people are loud and the waiters are rude; yet, Sidrería El Tigre provides a true Spanish experience. Elbow your way to the bar, order a round of beers and you’ll be rewarded with piles of complimentary tapas. Head over to Diplodocus for some serious pre-partying; bring some friends to share one of the massive 2-liter cocktails. Madrid nightlife is only getting started around midnight. Follow the twenty-something crowd to underground parties or queue up in front of scruffy-looking nightclubs. As soon as your eyes adjust to the brightly lit decorations, you’ll understand why Tupperware is among the coolest alternative rock bars in the city. Derived from what is not considered to be the most elegant of words, Maderfaker caters to a funkier crowd.

For the time being, Malasaña remains a retreat where weirdos feel perfectly normal again and people living the most banal of lives feel wonderfully weird again viagra moins cher. Set in a rustic Spanish setting, Malasaña and its residents will welcome you with open arms whether you’re a rebellious teenager, mutinous office worker, or suffering from a midlife-crisis.