Restaurant Review: FLO

A few things come to mind when one thinks of Seattle. Some might think of the Space Needle, the Seahawks and gloomy weather, while others might envision coffee establishments and the television antics of a certain Dr. Frasier Crane. I, on the other hand, in addition to the wonderful friends I have there, will always think of some of the greatest culinary experiences I’ve ever had–namely, my dinners at the Bellevue-based Japanese restaurant FLO.

Aside from my friends’ vocal adoration of the restaurant, I must admit that my expectations for FLO when I first dined there in 2006 were not set very high. After all, I was coming up from San Francisco where an entire section of the city is devoted entirely to Japanese food and culture. I had no idea that a small restaurant tucked neatly away in a small (now big) suburb outside of Seattle could come even close to my wonderful experiences with Japanese cuisine here in the Bay Area. However, as I took my first bite of FLO’s fresh and tangy hamachi carpaccio (runs about $13 and is well worth it), I realized that I was sadly mistaken.

The culinary delights did not end there–they were only just beginning. Of course, in addition to the customary miso soup and salad, my dear friends (a husband and wife who swear by the restaurant and eat there religiously) went on to select some of the most divine sushi and nigiri I had ever tasted. The menu’s prices (keep in mind that the menu does change) were more than fair when compared with the average price of sushi in the Seattle and San Francisco areas. You’re unlikely to spend more than $10 for a generous helping of non-seasonal sushi or nigiri, and none of the warm entrees exceeded the $20 mark.

Now, I don’t pretend to be an expert taster of Japanese sushi, but I can say that I’ve eaten at plenty of restaurants that serve it. Skeptics (such as I was) who are sadly led to believe that sushi doesn’t vary too much from one decent Japanese restaurant to the next, obviously haven’t tasted the exquisite freshness and preparation that has since become a hallmark of FLO’s sushi and nigiri offerings. For example, the sushi chef’s method of preparing toro (fatty tuna; it is seasonal and can be expensive), which is delicious pretty much wherever you go, brought the dish to a whole new level of succulence that I’m finding difficult to describe with words. You’ll just have to try it for yourself.

After several more toothsome selections from FLO’s extensive raw menu, of which a lightly-seared salmon nigiri named after my friend Laura (you won’t find it on the menu, unfortunately) was my favorite, the main course was served.

Having already drained several wooden decanters of sake, and eaten enough sushi to feed a small country, I must admit that my ability to fairly judge the main course was seriously handicapped. However, even my full stomach and worn sense of taste couldn’t fight the delicious burst of flavors coming from the miso-glazed duck confit (this is rarely on the menu apparently, so I was in luck), which, like much of what I’ve tasted from FLO’s menu, firmly stands as one of the best preparations of the dish I have ever tasted. Unfortunately, by the time dessert rolled around, I could not rationalize taking another bite–I knew I simply wouldn’t make it.

Given the many positive reviews I’ve read over the years for FLO, I can feel a bit better knowing that my own isn’t overly gushing and complimentary. I am proud to have dined at FLO on several occasions since my first dining experience there over five years ago–and with each visit, executive chef Steve Mooko finds yet another way to make an already fabulous menu even better.

If you’re a self-proclaimed connoisseur of Japanese food or a sushi skeptic, you owe it to yourself to give FLO a try if you’re in the Seattle area–or anywhere in the state of Washington for that matter. It’s that good.

1188 106th Ave. NE, Bellvue, WA
Phone: 425 453 4005
Photos courtesy of FLO

Do you agree with this review? Have any other sushi dining suggestions in the Bellvue area? Let us know in the comments section, or via our Facebook and Twitter accounts!

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